~*~ Long Trail Journal ~*~

“The Mud Walking has Begun…”

 

 

8-3-06 “Making Lemonade” Prologue

8-4-06 North Adams, MA to Seth Warner Shelter

8-5-06 Seth Warner Shelter to Harmon Hill

8-6-06 Harmon Hill to Glastonbury Mountain

8-7-06 Glastonbury Mountain to Lydia’s Rest

8-8-06 Lydian’s Rest to Stratton Pond

8-9-06 Stratton Pond to Manchester Center, VT

8-10-06 Manchester Center, VT to Mad Tom Notch

 

 

 

8/3/06

“Making Lemonade”

 

Sometimes life hands you lemons. And sometimes, even though you’d like to make lemonade, the lemons are no good. So what do you do? You throw away the lemons and forget about the lemonade. Have ice tea instead. Or fruit punch. Or beer.

 

That’s pretty much how we decided to hike the Long Trail. If you were following my other journal, you know that we intended on hiking the A.T. from GA to ME. In fact, we left mid-April and hiked our way to central Virginia. While taking a rest day, we checked our messages on the cell phone and everything changed in an instant. We had the unfortunate news of a terrible fire at our house. It cut our A.T. adventure short as we returned to NJ to see the damage for ourselves.

 

In hindsight, being on the trail was probably the best possible place to hear such news because when you are living so minimally, you realize how little your material possessions mean. However, my heart broke for the photos that were lost and the sentimental items that no amount of money could ever replace. It was a very introspective time. We were fortunate that nobody was hurt, but at the same time, we were suddenly without basic things like non-hiking clothes, a pair of sneakers, or even shampoo. I never realized how many small little things make “normal” day to day life possible.

 

While on the A.T., I had said the only thing that could get me off the trail was a serious injury or an emergency at home. Never in a million years could we have predicted what would happen and it saddened both of us greatly to have to leave. I will never forget that moment, sitting at the bus stop at Virginia Tech, waiting to go to the airport to pick up our rental car. My heart was heavy with thoughts of our friends still out there hiking, oblivious to our plight. It was heavy with despair that we had to get off the trail, not because we didn’t love it or we were hurt, but because we had to. Going home was that much harder knowing that quite simply, we didn’t really have a home to go back to. It felt more like we were leaving home to return to a greater unknown. It stung then and it still stings now. Things happen for a reason, but for the life of me, I will never understand the reason behind all of this.

 

After 6-7 weeks of picking up the pieces and scrambling, we found ourselves headed to what we affectionately call our “Consolation Prize” or “Plan B”. Dealing with the effects of the fire and the sudden loss of so much, we were very much looking forward to being back in the mountains on a spectacular trail. The A.T. isn’t going anywhere…we plan to return to GA in 2008 for another go at it. I can’t just walk away and I can’t be a “section hiker”. It is not in my nature and the A.T. is, after all, a childhood dream.

 

In the meantime, bring on the PUDS, the MUDS, rocks, roots, climbs and mud that the Long Trail has in store for us.

 

8/4/06

North Adams, MA to

Seth Warner Shelter                                                                                     Today’s miles: 7.1 miles

 

Wow. Being stagnant for 7 weeks really does a number on your trail legs. Ouch. I think today was actually harder on my body than the Approach Trail in Georgia.

 

Of course the southern terminus of the LT is 4.6 miles from an actual road. My mother dropped us in North Adams/Williamstown, MA where we began our journey. Uphill, of course. My mom always tells me I need to find friends that will say “no” when I asked to be dropped off in the middle of nowhere. I wonder how she feels about now being part of that group.

 

We took our time partially because we knew it wasn’t far to the first shelter and partially because, well, our legs simply needed to be re-acclimated to constant motion and extra weight on our backs. It was a quiet day on the trail, not a hiker to be seen. Fire Monger and I were fairly quiet as well, both getting reacquainted with trail life, a life we both love and have missed immensely. I was wrestling with my joy of being back on the trail and my sadness for not still being on the A.T. as an A.T. thru-hiker. I found myself thinking “I’m just hiking the Long Trail” and immediately after, scolded myself for thinking like that. It’s not healthy and it’s not “just” a trail.

 

The MA/VT line was a welcome sight. It’s a nice big open area with several boulders that make a perfect spot for a break. We decided to have a late lunch (since we had a late start thanks to a rain delay) at the border. Welcoming us to Vermont, was a giant mud put which I naturally stepped in as I attempted to take a picture of the GMC Long Trail sign. Ah yes, Vermud. It was a quick reminder of what will be in store for us. This is it, this is our Consolation Prize.

 

We reached Seth Warner Shelter around 5pm and proceeded to build a fire to ward off the demon bugs. That and we had some jeans and cotton to burn. It is always a pleasure to burn other people’s clothing. Before long, we were joined by several A.T. thru-hikers and a couple of LT hikers. Not to mention the 5-6 ATV’s that growled up and noisily turned around. What the hell…that engine noise is 100% obnoxious in the peaceful wilderness setting. I have nothing against ATV’s, mountain bikes, et cetera, but I often wish that there were totally separate places where people could enjoy their outdoor recreation of choice. I know it’s unrealistic and selfish, but when I want quiet, I want quiet now.

 

I’d be lying if I said it didn’t bother me to see AT thru-hikers. It is very hard for me. I felt an instant pang of jealousy, an ache of something that was suppose to be ours. Something that was taken away. If Fire Monger felt the same way, he didn’t mention it. I had thought it would be exciting to see them, thought we might even run into some friends. I was surprised by the hurtful and jealous feelings it caused. I know I’ll get over it, but the thought that my dream was cut short by something out of my control just pissed me off.

 

We set up camp at a remote little site away from the shelter, built fire #2, had dinner & listened to the sounds of the woods. You know the ones I mean: bugs, critters & thru-hikers falling in the mud on the way to get water. I love those sounds.

 

 

8/5/06

Seth Warner Shelter to

campsite near Harmon Hill                                                                           Today’s Miles: 9.4 miles

 

Last to leave the shelter! Hell yeah! No hurry to get up and I think it was around 10:30am when we left. At least it will be quiet out there, right?

 

We had our first VT climb up “Peak 3025” – nameless! From there we journeyed over Consultation Peak, which is misnamed in the LT Guide as “Consolation Peak”. We got a kick out of that being that we are calling this LT trip our “Consolation Prize”. We had lunch o the summit where we met & chatted with Lightweight, an AT NOBO’er from upstate NY. We ventured on through lots & lots of mud, a few bog logs and 2x4 bridges aiding out way.

 

It was a beautifully mild day in the mid to low 70’s and not a single bug to speak of. We are finding it very easy to get water – the massive amount of rainfall that hit Vermont in July has left plentiful supplies all along the trail. I am grateful that with the terrain we will be facing, it won’t be an issue to go in search of a water source when it comes time to set up camp for the evening.

 

At Congdon Shelter we found that Dubs, one of our AT friends, is only a day ahead of us. “Operation Catch Cassie” has begun! We are hoping that since her sister has just joined her to hike a section, it will do two things. One, slow her down from her crazed thru-hiker pace that she has geared into since Tator Tot left the trail and two, prevent her from all that yellow blazing. I’m sure her sister didn’t come all the way to Vermont just to ride from trailhead to trailhead in a car. We left the shelter to look for a camping spot and finally had success about 2.5 miles later, just shy of Harmon Hill. FM’s feet were hurting so we called it quits and stealthed away from the trail. We built a mini-fire in a hole once again to ward of demon insects. Fricken skeeters and little black no-see-ums!!! Lightweight ventured past us about 30 minutes later, making her way to the next shelter. We just aren’t that ambitious yet.

 

Lipton Sides & ramen for dinner…oh how I’ve missed trail food. Sadly, I’m not kidding. There are a lot of people that get pretty extravagant with their trail cooking. We are not among that group. I have found that a simple ramen-based dish suits me just fine. Add cheese, spaghetti sauce and some chorizo. Add a pouch of Cup O’ Soup. Add a pasta seasoning like pesto, alfredo, or sun-dried tomato. Instantly you have a really yummy and satisfying dinner. Add a pouch of flavored tuna for a trailside version of tuna casserole. I am also a big fan of peanut butter or Nutella eaten right out of the jar with my trusty spork.

 

 

 

8/6/06

campsite near Harmon Hill to

campsite on Glastonbury Mountain                                                              Today’s Miles: 13 miles

 

8:30am departure time: pretty damn good for us. And Fire Monger was packed before I even rolled out of bed at 7:30. I’m so lazy.

 

We discovered a beautiful campsite ON Harmon Hill, about 1/10 of a mile from where we had camped. Go figure. Nice fire ring and amazing view of Bennington and the Taconics to the West. However, given the fact that we were a little under prepared for the chilly VT evenings, it was better that we camped in a more sheltered area. The site on Harmon Hill was beautiful but incredibly exposed and very cold. We probably would have spent half the night up boiling water to fill Nalgene’s and stay warm.

 

We quickly had a steep downhill to Rt. 9 followed by our first really steep uphill to Maple Hill. Lots of rocks and roots to negotiate…oh, how I’ve missed them! We took a little break at Split Rock (yes, literally a huge split rock) while FM climbed it. He is still a monkey…maybe he should reconsider a name change to Fire Monkey. There were quite a few dayhikers out in this area – something that surprised me a little given that while the hiking itself is not yet that difficult, there are not a lot of views around there within easy dayhiking distance. I will be honest, with a loaded pack and sporting a skirt, I get a kick out of blowing by backpack-less dayhikers on an uphill. It is sometimes hard to interpret the looks that we get when we hike on. Many times, we leave whispers in our wake.

 

The next several miles were nice, typical of VT hiking. Meaning lots of mud and lots of little 50-100 foot climbs and descents. There were a few nice lookouts, both Porcupine and Little Pond had nice campsites as well. They aren’t mentioned in our guidebook, which is a shame. I can’t believe I’m saying this (forgive me Dubs) but: I miss Wingfoot!!! While we cursed him at every opportunity (and then some) on the A.T., there is something to be said for the quality and general accuracy of his guidebook. The mileages and detailed information on where to find water or campsites was so helpful.

 

Glastenbury Lookout gave us a perfect view of the mountain and fire tower that would end our day. My legs are already getting used to the trail again, something I realized on the long climb up Glastonbury. I have a few blisters but otherwise, all is well. When we reached Goddard Shelter we were greeted by a slew of boy scouts. Oh joy. Black flies and boy scouts…I don’t think we needed to communicate our desperate need to not stay there. A solo female weekender bee-lined to me, in hopes that there would be more estrogen at the shelter for the evening. I felt for her as I took in the scene but was in no mood to sleep amongst the masses. Goddard Shelter is a nice place though, complete with a gorgeous view of the setting sun. While we filtered water, the Boy Scouts were sure to inform us about their mileage and when you should filter water. I think they were trying to impress us in their own little way.

 

We cameled up on water and climbed 3/10 mile to the firetower. We passed tent after tent where people seemed to be trying to escape the crowds. It was a beautiful night with clear skies and a 360* view from the firetower. Greylock, Mt. Equinox, Mt. Snow, Stratton – all looming around us. There had to be another 20 people camped up there. We pushed on…but not too far. Only a mile or so before FM’s feet were hurting so bad he couldn’t walk. While he sat and rubbed his feet, I scouted out the area. I found a “nice” stealth spot and we made camp. More Lipton Sides, more ramen and more cous-cous. Mmmmmmmm.

 

My blisters are a bit raw and I forgot duct tape. What kind of backpacker am I…leaving my duct tape at home?!? I’m hoping they heal quickly and hoping FM’s feet stop hurting. But, aches, pains, blisters – bring it on…we wouldn’t trade life on the trail for anything.

 

 

8/7/06

campsite near Glastonbury Mountain to

campsite near Lydia’s Rest                                                                            Today’s Miles: 4.5 miles

 

FM’s feet hurt. My blisters are raw. We were LAZY today. Yup, 4.5 miles of hiking after starting out mid-afternoon. We had better slow down – sheesh. We wouldn’t want to get to Canada by Christmas or anything crazy like that, now would we?

 

Stopped quickly at Kid Gore Shelter (nice view!) for water and then moseyed another mile or so to Lydia’s Rest. There were a few thru-hikers milling around and with two shelters within a half mile of each other, it could have been a potential party scene. The AT hikers were anxious to chat whereas FM and I were anxious for solitude and silence. As we left the second shelter around 5:30pm, one guy actually asked if we were okay. I suppose he thought that we were packing up and leaving late because something was wrong. Although I was annoyed at first, I quickly changed to being grateful. Not because we needed help, but that hikers look out for each other and inquire when something seems off. It was appreciated to know that had something been wrong, there was someone there willing to help in anyway he could.

 

We opted to rest with Lydia for the night and hope for a better and brighter tomorrow. I’m tired anyway. Phooey.

 

 

8/8/06

campsite near Lydia’s Rest to

campsite after Stratton Pond                                                                         Today’s Miles: 14.3 miles

 

This morning seemed to pass quickly with our later start from Lydia’s Rest. We had stealth camped and may have startled a lonely hiker as we crashed out of the woods. We had actually been camped off of what used to be an old part of the A.T., years ago. We could see very old blazes on a couple of the trees and the very slightest trace of where the trail could have gone. Had we not noticed the blazes, we may have never realized that we were on the old trail. There was no way of knowing that it wouldn’t be the last time we would crash out of the woods and scare someone.

 

Before we knew it, it was 1pm and we were lounging by the trailhead at Kelley Stand Road. It was a fairly hot day and sitting in the dirt didn’t help much. There were several cars but not a soul in sight. All that stood between us and a good nights sleep was Stratton Mountain. Stratton Mountain, for those who don’t know, is where Benton MacKaye first conceived the notion of a Long Trail. It is here that the Long Trail was born, and in turn, the Appalachian Trial. It felt good to be climbing the mountain that in essence, began my lifetime of dreaming.

 

The climb up wasn’t nearly as rugged as I had anticipated…a nice surprise. There was a nice vista from the ridge of Little Stratton so we took a break and relaxed there for a moment. The rolling green mountains are a sight that I will never tire of. As far as the eye can see in the beautiful haze of late summer. They aren’t majestic and spectacular like the Rockies or the Tetons, but they are remarkably beautiful in so many ways.

 

On Stratton’s summit was a small caretaker hut that stood empty and yet another fire tower. FM climbed up and settled in for a snack. I climbed, looked and made haste back down. Ever since the fire tower on Shuckstack Mountain in GSMNP, I’m leery about them and I have no idea why. I climb them all to take in the view, but never waste much time hanging around on the rickety structures, even in perfectly still and temperate weather. I can not imagine being up there in a storm! After snapping some shots of Bromley, Equinox and the surrounding beauty, we headed down the other side of the mountain to find home for the evening.

 

Again, FM’s feet were hurting so when we stopped at Stratton Pond for water, he took the opportunity to soak his feet in the pond. The water was too cold for my liking so I stayed on dry land and watched a thru-hiker as she quietly did yoga on the shore of the lake. I thought to myself it would make a great video – peaceful and quiet and definitely relaxing.

 

We chatted briefly with the GMC caretaker who advised us of good stealth camping spots coming up. We found a nice place a little less than a mile up the trail and set up. Stealthing is definitely the way to go! It was also nice to know that the caretakers don’t shove the fee sites down your throat and understand some people prefer to stealth, so they advise the best places for doing just that. It’s much appreciated. I don’t mind paying the $5 fee in certain places, but hey, we don’t even stay at shelters when they are free.

 

Tomorrow we head into Manchester Center for mail drop numero uno. Seems like an easy trek in so we’re hoping to get in and out and camp somewhere on Bromley tomorrow evening. I haven’t been to Manchester Center in ages, let alone on foot. It’s so strange being in my home state and seeing things from this perspective. Time will tell if we manage to get in and out of town in one day…

 

By the way, Operation Catch Cassie has proven unsuccessful to date – damn Dubs and her incessant yellow blazing ways!

 

 

8/9/06

campsite near Stratton Pond to

Manchester Center, VT                                                                                 Today’s Miles: 10.0 miles

 

Yet another amazing day! This weather is perfect. We headed out this morning and had a quick 4’ish miles to Prospect Rock. A great place for a break as we are the rock outcrop King & Queen. Had a snack…mmmm tortilla with peanut butter (woe is the thru-hiker with no food left on resupply day). Second course? A mashed and melted Snickers bar shoved into a ripped and dying tortilla. I gotta tell you – it wasn’t half bad. Tortilla’s are an excellent multi-functional food. Really. Ramen and tortilla’s are like the duct tapes of food. The hiker appetite and willingness to eat just about anything is something that is beyond understanding unless you have experienced it firsthand.

 

When a family came and took over the rock, we called it quits and skedaddled. Sometimes we’re just not in the mood to answer the questions we know are coming. I finally understand why so many thru-hikers blow by people on the trail and don’t say hi. They dread the possibility that they are going to have to answer the same set of questions for the billionth time on their hike. It would be much easier to hand out “Trail Cards” with your start date, trail name, how many miles you’ve hiked, why you are hiking, what you eat and where you sleep. By 2pm, we were on Rt. 11 ready to hitch the 5.5 miles. As luck would have it, a car pulled up and offered a ride without us lifting a thumb. A nice couple who just finished doing the MA part of the AT – they had spent the last few hours shuttling hikers’ around. We shared some laughs about “just” hiking the Long Trail or “just” doing one state. They dropped us at The Mountain Goat Outfitter where we picked up our maildrop and then hit the store for a Diet Pepsi. Yeah for carbonated beverages!

 

We decided to do laundry, right after FM scarfed down 2 double cheeseburgers, fries, ½ a chicken sandwich. None for me…trying to avoid town food for the entire trip. No reason other than to see if I can do it…though FM is a lousy cheerleader right now and that food looked damn good. Laundry can be an adventure when you really don’t have anything clean to put on. It’s more about putting on the least dirty thing you have and then washing the rest. Usually my laundry time wardrobe is kilt and raincoat. Since I’ve been hiking most of this trip in a board skirt, it’s my convertible pants that are the cleanest so that’s what I put on. We’ve become masters of changing in public…oh, the things you learn while long distance hiking.

 

We hit the grocery store to pick up must-haves to supplement our maildrop. Like, must have lots of chocolate…yum. Must have cheese too. Then we stalled and putzed around until almost 7:30pm when we headed to Sutton’s Place for a room. What the hell…America’s Got Talent was on at 9pm and Fire Monger didn’t want to miss Leonid the Magnificent. I miss the south and the hostels for $10 a night. There is no such thing in these parts, usually. Manchester Center would be a great place for a hostel…hmmmm. Sutton’s was pretty close to a hostel – small bedrooms, communal bathroom/shower, and a common room with a TV. No laundry or kitchen facilities available though, which was a bummer. Going rate? $65 for a double room. Yikes. BUT…it was a very nice place with hospitable owners and a peaceful setting on a side street. We met Dutch Couple #2, the Wine Walkers. It felt good to shower and sleep soundly in a bed. I love pillows.

 

8/10/06

Manchester Center, VT to

Mad Tom Notch                                                                                           Today’s Miles: 5.2 miles

 

We slept until 10:00am…ahahahahaha! Hey, I told you I love pillows. We finally managed to get out of town around noon only to face Bromley. We stopped to check email but I didn’t bother…bunch of spam, I’m guessing. FM checked his and even managed to get a few written.

 

Anyway, 3 miles uphill to the summit of Bromley Ski Area – in less than an hour, thank you very much. We were cruising along and it felt great. Though we breezed past one really odd character. He smelled like a privy, looked out of place on the trail and besides a loaded up (and then some) external frame pack, he was carrying a bunch of plastic grocery bags in his hand, filled up with God only knows what. He gave off a bad vibe…scary, in a sense. I just don’t know if I was scared for us…or for him.

 

Bromley is awesome – the summit has a warming hut for skiers but hikers are allowed to use it. It even had a working phone – can we order pizza? We drank a beer while sitting on the chairlift and checking out the view. Many of the peaks on the LT go over ski areas and seeing these in the summer is as eerie as it is interesting. They do provide a nice rest stop with comfortable chairs. I’m definitely not accustomed to sitting on a chairlift and being warm. FM has never been skiing, so sitting on a chairlift is an entirely new experience for him.

 

While on the observation deck we met a couple from NJ who were amazed at what we were doing. After explaining what “the orange things” are for (z-rests), the hubby said “you don’t actually sleep in the mountains do you?” <insert blank stare here> The wife mentioned she had seen us in Manchester Center yesterday and pointed us out to her husband because we had to be real serious hikers. Yah…so serious that we didn’t leave town until noon. Right on, chickie-poo. Ah, I love tourists! And they were from NJ…ouch.

 

The descent off the mountain was steep but relatively easy, though a little overgrown in spots. Enough for us to burst into song with “The Lion Sleeps Tonight.”

 

We reached Mad Tom Notch fairly early and intended to eat a late lunch and go on. We met two AT hikers – Too Much & Enough – they were really nice. We had actually had a brief encounter with them yesterday at the laundry mat where they had offered us a ride to the trailhead. We declined, as we were staying the night. The weather was getting sketchy so we found a nice little site about 2/10 of a mile up the trail and quickly set up. We beat the rain by about 15 minutes, even had enough time to create a nice little space with our tents and get a really hot fire going. The SD Mach 1 tents have a dual track vestibule which was really convenient for creating a “tarped” area when we set them up facing each other.

 

We retreated for an hour or so while the rain poured down. After the storm, our fire was out but the embers were HOT. Yay!!! Another fire, no dinner and off to bed. It’s getting chilly at night. Brrrrrr…

 

                                                                                                                                                                                    Weekly Miles:

 

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