~*~ AT – West
Hartford, VT to Route 4
~*~
West Hartford,
VT
to Killington,
VT
Date: July
1, 2005 through July
4, 2005
Hikers:
MsKatieBear, Neville, Anatole, Frosty, tinker and lilmountaingirl
Mileage:
Elevation
Gain/Loss:
Friday
I
arrived at my mom’s on Thursday evening. Friday morning she and I ran some
errands. Neville arrived (from Texas!) around 3:45pm, and Frosty drove in about 10 minutes
later. While waiting for MsKB to call to let us know she was in VT, Neville,
Frosty, my mom and I went to South Royalton and had dinner at 5 Olde Nugget
Alley. MsKatie called around 8pm so we all jumped into our cars and drove
to meet her at the Inn so we could leave cars there. I left a
note for tinker and Anatole, along with some Long Trail and nachos. When we
pulled back into my mom’s around 10pm, they were sipping on beers and playing
the guitar. After introductions and tent set ups (a few minor mishaps involving
tent poles) in the backyard, we all crashed knowing we had a long day on
Saturday!
Saturday
Tinker
was probably up first, and gradually the rest of us peeled ourselves out of our
tents and packed up our gear. We left my mom’s at 7:45am and drove 4 miles to West Hartford, VT to begin our hiking! My mom said goodbye
and off we went over the old iron bridge that crosses the White River. In 5 minutes, we were on the AT headed
south. In 30 seconds, we were climbing, an indication of what was to come. The
trails in VT are beautiful, varying greatly between smooth pine needles, dirt,
grassy fields. The only predictable thing is that they will go straight up and
they will go straight down. Thistle Hill Shelter is only a mile…I swear…
We
passed through a beautiful old pine forest and came upon a sugaring operation
near an old jeep road. The plastic tubing was wrapped around the trees, looking
like an outward bound course. We regrouped at this point before beginning our
next big climb. The summits that we hit on Saturday were often huge grassy
fields with amazing clear views of the Green Mountains. Irresistible and impossible to pass up!
I threw my pack down a couple of times to just take it all in. At one field,
the urge to sing “the hills are alive with the sound of music” was
uncontrollable. As Matt and I trekked across the field, we heard
MsKB and Frosty behind us, doing just that. As we turned around, they were
spinning and singing and having a blast. Thistle Hill Shelter is still only a
mile…
We
finally arrived at Thistle Hill Shelter and as we all trickled in, we fueled up
and groaned a bit about the climbs. Those rolling Green Mountains are deceiving and are not so rolling when
you are hiking. Once everyone had eaten, Neville decided that he was not going
to be able to continue. His knees were really bothering him and the downhills
were not helping. Frosty decided that he would return with Neville and meet us
on the last day. I was sorry to see them go but happy to know we would see each
other again at the Inn. I called my mom and arranged a pick up
for them in West
Hartford. Before
leaving the shelter, we all checked out the privy which is from the old
Cloudland Shelter. It is a six sided gazebo that is screen in on the top! I
caught MsKB testing it out! Bwahaha
MsKB,
Anatole, tinker and I headed back out on the trail and off to Winturri Shelter
(another 11.8 miles!). MsKB is a great person to hike with because she has a
steady and consistent pace. She and I ended up moving along while tinker and
Anatole took a few breaks here and there. I needed to keep moving to keep my
muscles from tightening up. As MsKB and I came down an incredibly steep
descent, I heard a noise and looked up to see a flash of red. It turned out to
be a SOBO hiker, Mark, who was literally running down the
mountain without trekking poles. When he reached us at South Pomfret Road, we had a brief conversation and
introductions. He was headed to a store to grab “real” food while we stopped
for a snack, knowing he’d fly by us again later in the day. As we sat and ate,
a NOBO hiker came around the corner and I immediately recognized him. It was
Bodhi, a thru-hiker I had met at the Doyle
in Duncannon, PA with BroodX on Memorial Day Weekend. I
was shocked to see him but it was a pleasant surprise. He was hightailing it
for Hanover, NH for the 4th of July. We
chatted, I let him use my cell phone and away he went.
Saturday
was getting longer and longer. Anatole and tinker were talking about stealth
camping rather than getting to the shelter.
We knew that the last 4 miles to the shelter was an uphill climb but
MsKB and I were determined to get there and get the long 17 mile day behind us.
Upon reaching Rt 12, we all sat down and regrouped again. Mark, our SOBO friend, caught us and sat as
well. I filtered water while MsKB relaxed and tinker and Anatole cooked dinner
(it was 7pm by now). We talked about the evening and Katie and I finally decided to push on to the
shelter. We would meet tinker and Anatole there in the morning. Mark decided he was going as well and took off
ahead of us. We passed him 5 minutes later coming the other direction saying he
was done for the night and would stealth. It was an uphill drag through a field
(no equipment eating cows though…must have been a myth). We were already
exhausted and pushing ourselves. Within 10 minutes, there was a voice behind us
again. It was Mark and he was coming to the shelter after
all. MsKB and I were happy to have the company of this lonely SOBO’er. He kept our minds off the task at hand
and was a pleasure to talk to…and look at. ]:) The climb got rocky and it got
dark but we did it! We got to the shelter at 9:45pm, unloaded our stuff, high-fived each
other, took 2 advil, a Tylenol PM and crashed hard.
Sunday
I
heard Kate (another SOBO hiker at the shelter)
packing her stuff and leaving. I stirred slightly and finally got up at 8am. Katie had just gotten up and Mark was in his tent changing. We had Pop
Tarts, filled up our water and hung out to wait for tinker and Anatole. Three
NOBO’s popped in: Jive, Castaway and Kodak. Jive was another one I had met in
Duncannon so we chatted a bit. Mark
took off so Katie and I thanked him for the escorting
service and said goodbye. Tinker and Anatole rolled in around 9am and we were ready to go! They had camped
about 2.5 miles north.
Once
again, we had a steep climb to start the day. I was feeling sore but pretty
good. Our next goal was the lookout point about 2.6 miles away. We had been
told it was an amazing place by Bodhi. Of course, it was a climb to get there!
The lookout is a privately owned cabin that thru-hikers are permitted to use as
a shelter. There is a ladder up the back with a “widows walk” on the roof,
providing 360 degree views of the Green Mountains, NY state and NH. It was truly breathtaking being perched
high atop the world. After lunch, we headed out again for the next destination,
another lookout 2.0 miles up the trail. That point was beautiful, but not
nearly as awesome as the previous. At this point, tinker took off and it would
be the last we’d see of him for most of the day. We passed a few more NOBO hikers including Cotton
Joe (another from the Duncannon crew I met). We were headed for Stony Brook
Shelter which was located in a valley. As we came down a steep descent, we
could hear voices and smell the campfire! Almost there! Or not…
Upon
reaching the valley at Stony Brook, we discovered hoardes of car campers and
blue tarps. But no shelter. I checked the map again and discovered we would
need to climb about 400’ to reach the shelter. Anatole didn’t want to believe
me, I don’t think. Our feet were aching and our legs were tired. As we crossed
the road, we found tinker. I was ready to be at the shelter so I took off up
the hill with tinker on my heels. Katie
and Anatole took there time. I stopped at one point, hearing footsteps behind
me and seeing Anatole running up the hill without his pack, certain the shelter
was not this far up. He ran ahead to catch tinker and I went for the ladies
room. I grabbed my pack and continued on, finding tinker at the shelter only
about 1/8 mile up the trail. AHhhhhh relief! I set up my tent and went about
getting ready to make dinner. Once we had eaten, Katie and I stretched out to relax. Anatole
built a small fire and tinker entertained us with his guitar for awhile. Two
more advil and 1 more Tylonel PM, I hit my tent and crashed for a great nights
sleep.
Monday
Happy
4th of July!!! I arose to tinker asking if I wanted coffee. I hate
mornings. I pulled myself out of the tent to discover Katie, just as annoyed to be awake as I was.
Anatole slept a bit more before tinker called to him. After Pop Tarts and
water, we were geared up and ready to go. This morning brought a 900’ steep
climb in ¾ mile to the top of Quimby Mountain. At 9am, we hit the trail, saying we would
regroup at the Inn in the event we lost each other.
I
started up and immediately my legs felt great so I wasn’t about to stop. I
forged ahead, taking in the silence of the mountains, the scenery, one grouse,
a couple of garter snakes, and many chipmunks. VT is a beautiful state and I
was loving every minute of the hike on Monday. After about 4 miles, as I was
descending, I heard bagpipes playing in the valley. Shortly after I heard the
sound of trekking poles behind me. I turned to look and discovered MsKatie
coming down so I stopped and waited. She must have been hauling butt on those
downhills because I hadn’t stopped at all! We reached Thunderbrook Road to discover people wandering around. We
were told we just missed the parade but there was a picnic 1/8 mile down the
road if we wanted lunch. Tempting, but we passed since we were feeling strong
and anxious to get to the Inn. Shortly up the ¼ mile road walk, we
discovered Frosty! Yeah! He had parked at the Inn and hiked in to meet us. It was great to
see him and we were once again, happy for the company.
He
turned back and headed out with us for the last 3.7 miles out. This time, we
passed quite a few dayhikers on our way. At Kent Pond, we threw off our packs and lounged by
the edge of the lake. There was a B&B nearby so Frosty asked if we’d like a
soda. Hell yeah! He came back shortly with three ice cold Diet Pepsi’s. That
was the best soda I have ever had in my entire life and Katie and I were extremely grateful! Still no
sign of tinker and Anatole so we decided to leave. We passed a family walking
and the mother actually pulled her child closer to her when we passed. What? We
smell or something?
About
a mile of level walking was a great and unexpected reprieve! We crossed Rt. 100
into Gifford State Park and began the last push to the top. I
swear on Day 3, my legs kick in because I felt great on this climb. I was ready
to be at the top and pushed ahead. I finally reached the top and found a small
clearing with a great view of Pico Peak. I lay down on the log and relaxed while
I waited for Frosty and Katie. When they arrived, we were ready for our
descent to the Inn. About 300 yards up the trail was the
crossing for Sherburne Pass Trail that would take us to the Inn. Katie promptly kissed the sign and we headed on
down the last ½ mile. Ironic the last part was nothing but rock!
Katie, Frosty and I went to our cars and then
spotted Neville sitting on the Adirondack chairs. I ran to the gas station for some
cold Gatorade and returned to the group. While they chatted outside, I went in
to check on my reservation and saw, yet again, Bodhi! Sitting at the bar! A
friend had picked him up in West
Hartford and
they had been out swimming and stopped here for lunch. I chatted with them
again for awhile, hoping to bump into Bodhi again in two weeks when I’m in the
Whites. This time I’ll pack in some goodies for them!
Tinker
and Anatole were outside by the time I came back out. We all went in to clean
up, shower and grab dinner and a beer. It was delicious! I had a great weekend
and it was a great hike with great company! The amazing weather was an added
bonus for the weekend. Thank you all for coming and I hope you had fun and that
the aches and pains were worth it.
What I learned/misc stuff…
~MsKatie and I
kick ass!!!
~Nothing gets the
attention of three tired hikers faster than some random guy saying “POP TART”
on a lake
~The hills are
alive with the sound of backpackers….
~Toepick!
(Cutting Edge)
~Lacrosse, WI might be worth visiting afterall. (and Katie…he has a twin!)
~No matter where
I go, I run into someone I know…without fail.
~Just when you
think you can’t continue…you can.
~”I’m sleeping on
my back” (a Frosty quote, Deliverance reference)
~The hardest
climb was walking up the 8 steps into the Inn at Long Trail!
Frosty ~ it was great
to meet you and I hope we cross paths on the AT next year! If I can catch you…
tinker ~ thank
you for the videos, the music and those organic M&M’s!
Anatole ~ so are
you ready for the LT? I’m glad you made this trip!
Neville ~ I’m
sorry about your knees but thank you so much for coming and for dinner on
Monday! I hope you are able to make it up here again sometime.
Katie ~ WoE! I love hiking with you and I can’t
wait til Banff! Maybe there will be cabana boys there?
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